Exterior Insulation: The 'Sweater' Strategy
Most insulation goes between the studs. But studs transmit heat. The best way to insulate a house is from the OUTSIDE. Here is why.
The Thermal Bridge Problem
Your house frame is made of wood (2x4 or 2x6). Wood has an R-value of roughly 1 per inch. Inside the wall cavities, you have R-20 fiberglass. But every 16 inches, you have a wooden stud that is only R-4. These studs make up 25% of your wall's surface area. So your "R-20" wall is actually performing at R-15. Heat is leaking through the skeleton of the house.
The Solution: The "Outsulation"
When you replace your siding, you have a golden opportunity. Nail rigid foam (XPS, Polyiso) or Mineral Wool boards directly over the existing sheathing before you put the new siding on.
Benefits
- Continuous R-Value: You cover the wood studs. The thermal bridging stops. The whole wall is now protected.
- Warm Sheathing: By keeping the wood sheathing warm, you prevent condensation from forming inside the wall during winter. It is the best way to rot-proof a house.
- Air Sealing: Taping the seams of the foam board creates a perfect air barrier.
The Challenge: Details
It sounds easy, but it changes the geometry of the house.
- Windows: They appear "sunken" because the wall is thicker. You need to extend the jambs.
- Doors: Need extension jambs.
- Roof Overhangs: If you add 4 inches of foam, your roof overhang shrinks by 4 inches.
The Sweet Spot
For most retrofits, 1.5 to 2 inches of foam is the limit before you have to do massive carpentry work on windows. Adding 2 inches of Polyiso (R-12) to the outside of a 2x4 wall transforms it from a leaky R-10 into a high-performance R-22 airtight assembly.
Conclusion
If you are just painting your house, skip this. But if you are spending $30,000 on new Siding, spending an extra $4,000 for foam board is the single smartest upgrade you can make. You will never have the walls open again. Do it right.
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